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May 03 2012

Joinery – Not just for lasercutters any more

Joinery - Not just for lasercutters any more

Joinery - Not just for lasercutters any more

The Make Blog recent posted about CNC panel joinery techniques.  However, there’s no reason these really amazing assembly techniques should be relegated to just CNC cutting machines.  Any of these techniques could be easily applied to 3D printing to create objects that can be assembled without any tools or hardware.  Some of my favorite things to 3D print of all time are multi-part pieces that can be hand assembled.  There’s the dinosaur, the spider, the 27-to-1 gear ratio crank, and Tony Buser’s Toy Robot Toolkit.

Of course, having a 3D printer at your disposal means you don’t need to use joinery to create a 90 degree angle or a corner like those pictured above.  Even so, there’s no reason why one couldn’t use those same techniques to connect larger, more complex, 3D parts.  I would love to see an OpenSCAD library of joinery – little cutouts and tabs that could just be dropped into a design to make it snap-slide-slot together.

May 01 2012

Notepad++, the ONLY way to OpenSCAD

Worthless Dice by blarbles

Worthless Dice by blarbles

Now, don’t get me wrong – I love me my OpenSCAD.  While it’s an amazing and powerful tool for 3D modeling, the text editor is not as full featured as one would want.  Thankfully, Thingiverse citizen justblair has put together a short tutorial on how to use the text editor of your choice with OpenSCAD for the best of both worlds – a full featured text editor and an awesome 3D modeling program.

Justblair recommends my personal pick for a text editor, the free, open source, and very feature rich Notepad++.  (I prefer the PortableApps.com version). 1  The process basically involves changing a few settings so that OpenSCAD will immediately re-compile the current objects from a file being edited, whenever that file is saved.

The process is really easy and very worthwhile.  Being able to find/replace and perform regex searches make designing in OpenSCAD so much easier.

This guide is for Windows Users. I am growing to love OpenSCAD as a creative tool for 3D design but I do find that it's text editor lacks many of the basic features that I appreciate when writing code... Namely: Auto-Completion Syntax Highlighting Collapsible Outline levels Line Numbering Automatic Tabbing Search and Replace Block Tabbing using the tab key. I was pleased to discover however that you don't need to put up with the standard text editor. There is a feature that allows you to conveniently use the text editor of your choice with OpenSCAD. My editor of choice is Notepad++ a fast well featured open source text editor. You can download it from notepad-plus-plus.org/ Notepad++ supports many different programming languages but not unfortunately OpenSCAD. It does however have the facility that allows you to create your own language file which I have included here. This is definitely a work in progress as I have had to make a few compromises due to the limitations of Notepad++'s language editor. I dare say other more experienced coders opinions will differ as to how best to syntax code the OpenSCAD language. I am currently working on adding auto-complete functionality to notepad++ as we speak. I have included a working though not complete file called openscad_removethisbitandcopy.xml. Currently most if not all functions will auto-complete, what is going to take me longer is adding call-tips to all the functions which would be nice though is not critical.
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com
  1. See a pattern?

April 30 2012

OpenSCAD Intermediates: How to Make Organic Shapes

Memory Card Enclosure by rvanchie

Memory Card Enclosure by rvanchie

In this OpenSCAD tutorial series we’ve covered the basics of the OpenSCAD interface, how to make 2D forms, how to make some basic 3D forms, how to position those forms in 3D space, the different ways to combine forms, how to create mashups of one or more existing STL’s and OpenSCAD forms, how to use modules to reuse your code to make your life easier, how to extrude flat 2D forms into 3D forms, and how to fix design problems.  Although I described a few of the last tutorials as “intermediate” levels, that’s really only because you learned the basics so quickly from the first few tutorials.

Today I’d like to show you how easy it is to make some neat organic looking forms with OpenSCAD.  The secret behind doing so are two functions, “hull” and “minkowski.”  Let’s learn a little bit about what each of these functions do and try out some code.  More, after the break!

  • Hull
    • The “hull” function essentially connects two or more 2D shapes, almost as if they were “shrink-wrapped” together.  Suppose you wanted to create an pear-shape, you could do this by creating two circles – one larger than another – and tracing around the both of them.  Let’s see what these two circles would look like without the hull function first:
      1. translate([0,50,0]) circle(30);
      2. circle(50);
    • What you should expect to see is the two circles, somewhat overlapping.  Now, let’s see how the hull function automatically connects these two shapes into just one shape:
      1. “hull()
      2. {
      3. translate([0,40,0]) circle(30);
      4. circle(50);
      5. }”
    • By using hull to connect squares and circles, anyone can easily create extremely organic seeming shapes.  One interesting way to use this function is to create just the major points of your desired complex organic 2D object, and then apply the hull function as we did above.  This way you can be sure the final object created by hull would have all the important features you were trying to create.
    • Pro Tip:  The hull function can be used with more than one 2D shape.
    • Pro Tip:  Since a complex object created with hull is also a 2D shape, you can make another 2D shape by using hull around other 2D shapes and other complex shapes created by a hull function.
  • Minkowski
    • The “minkowski” function basically takes one 2D shape and traces it around the edge of another 2D shape.  As with “hull”, the best way to understand how this function works is to see how the two objects appear without, and then with, the minkowski function around them.  So, first try:
      1. square(50);
      2. circle(10);
    • You should see a square and a circle overlapping at the origin point.  Now, let’s try it again with the minkowski function around those two 2D objects:
      1. minkowski()
      2. {
      3. square(50);
      4. circle(10);
      5. }
    • You should now see a square with rounded corners!
  • Wait, wait…  I promised you organic, right?  Try this on for size:
    • minkowski()
    •      {
    •      circle(4);
    •      for(i=[0:5])
    •           {
    •           rotate([0,0,360/5 * i])
    •           hull()
    •                {
    •                translate([20,0,0]) square(10);
    •                square(2);
    •                }
    •           }
    •      }
  • Conclusion
    • Hull and Minkowski functions let you combine two or more 2D shapes in ways that would be really difficult in other methods.  Using these two interesting functions in conjunction make even more amazing organic appearing shapes possible.  Once you’ve created a complex shape by using hull, or several hull objects combined, being able to trace another shape around that complex object can make interesting, and sometimes slightly unpredictable results.
  • Homework Assignment
    • Now that you’ve learned how to use hull and minkowski functions, show everyone what you can do!  Use what you’ve learned today to either (a) create one 2D object using hull and one 2D object using minkowski or (b) one object that uses both hull and minkowski, then upload your your OpenSCAD file and the STL to Thingiverse.
    • Extra credit:  If you want to make me extra proud, please tag it with “openscadtutorial.”  That way anyone who clicks that link will be able to see all of our hard work!
  • Last but not least, today’s gold star goes to… rvanchie for their OpenSCAD tutorial homework.  I’d like to include a picture of your homework next time – so don’t forget your homework!

[simple_series title="OpenSCAD Tutorial Series"]

The topic of the next tutorial is up to you.  What would you like to learn next?  Is there something you’d like to learn how to make?  Is there something more you’d like to learn about some of the topics we’ve covered?

I needed a thing to hold the guts of a worn out thumb drive. I thought it would be a simple project to learn openscad.
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com

February 03 2012

Autodesk wants you to know how to print your 123d models on your MakerBot!

Click here to view the embedded video.

Autodesk 123d is one of many freely-available apps that new MakerBot users might consider learning.  And unlike some other programs we love, it looks like Autodesk wants it to be easy to print your models on a MakerBot.  In fact, they want it so much that they’ve just posted the above video on their youtube channel.

It’s a bit long (over 9 minutes) but put it on your list for when you’re woodshedding your 3d-modeling chops.  While it’s specifically aimed at the Thing-O-Matic, most of what they’re saying should transfer to the Replicator.  Just model for a larger build area!

123d is a bit different from other modeling programs, and might be a bit counter-intuitive if you’re used to one of the others.  However, their youtube channel has a number of tutorials and there are some neat things about the project (like an iPad app and a photo-to-model program.)

If you’re looking to pick up some 3d modeling skills while you’re waiting for your Replicator, this is one of many great programs to learn!

December 01 2011

Dinobots (or Makersaurus?): getting skulls to print right

One of the most interesting challenges faced in 3D printing is creating facsimiles of real-world objects, things that have not been designed according to design rules that make them easier to print. Animal skulls, and in particular dinosaur skulls, are a great example: full of complex organic shapes, extreme overhangs and bridges, and thin shells. I’ve been learning a lot about printing these, and thought I could share what I have learned.

Three reptilian skulls

I was inspired by the dinosaur skull posted on Thingiverse and set out to look for more. The Digimorph project at the University of Texas has some dinosaurs, but the STL files are not posted.  However, Artect, a company that makes 3D scanners, has posted a very nice high-resolution STL file of a Tarbosaurus skull, on their 3D model download page. It’s the first model listed on the page.  I sliced it in Netfabb, and have posted the sliced files on Thingiverse.

Keep reading for some tips on how to print this object, and other complex organic shapes!

To print the Tarbosaurus, I first sliced the skull into 4 sections using Netfabb, using the same procedure I have posted about earlier on this blog, to print a crocodile skull. The key is to choose your slices in such a way that you don’t end up with too many hanging pieces, and also to reduce extreme overhangs.

Tarbosaur skull, assembled

There was really no way of printing this without extensive support, so I enabled support material in Skeinforge. However, I did not want a raft, since I wanted a very flat mating surface when I glued the finished skull together. To use support material without a raft, go into the raft settings in Skeinforge, and set the base layers and interface layers to 0.  You can then enable raft and support when generating G-Code, but no raft will actually be made. (Raft has to be enabled for support material to work).

For the raptor skull that is also posted on Thingiverse, I did the opposite. It looked feasible to print without support, but the very long and narrow pieces of the jaw print straight up a long way, and I was concerned that they would not adhere to the build platform. For this print, I enabled raft (setting base and interface layers to 1) but not support.

The default support options are very sturdy - unnecessarily so. The parameter that controls the density of the support material is hidden away in the raft module in Skeinforge, it is the Interface Layer Density (ratio) parameter. Reduce it to 0.4 or even less. Making this number smaller will make the support material flimsier, and easier to pull away from your model.

I have found it helpful to raise the extrusion temperature to 235C. This makes the ABS less viscous, and helps it to stay flat once extruded. Otherwise, some of the overhangs will curl up, and snag the nozzle as it travels back forth.

Once printed, you’ll notice that pulling off the support materials leaves white “bruising” on the ABS. In fact, any kind of trimming or shaping of the ABS will do this. A great remedy is to go over the piece with a hot air gun – a second or two of exposure is enough to “cure” the plastic, and magically erase the bruises.

If, like me, your print is not exact, you’ll have to bend it a little to make it fit properly when you glue it together. This places the whole piece under tension, which is not a good thing. Once again, a quick pass with a hot air gun is enough to slightly soften the piece, and relax any tensile stresses. Don’t overdo it – the piece can melt quicker than you think.

I hope this is useful. Please post if you find any other interesting models to print. The Digimorph project has some more STLs available for download, I look forward to hearing about any successful prints!

By request, I'm posting the files I used to print the dinosaur skull originally uploaded by cyborg527:thingiverse.com/thing:10447 In plenty of time for Christmas, it's "Rudolph the Red-Nosed Raptor". (I ran out of white...but the red works too, somehow %^)
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com
This is the skull of a Tarbosaurus, an Asian relative of the Tyrannosaurus Rex. The scan was originally posted online by Artec, a maker of 3D scanners, on their 3D model download page, artec3d.com/gallery/3d-models/. (Some cool stuff there, by the way.) All I've done is sliced it into 4 pieces using Netfabb, to make it easier to print. The STL from Artec is super clean, so if you have better ideas for how to prep the piece for printing, download their original file and give it a try!
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com

November 17 2011

MakerBot + Sugru = Heart

Click here to view the embedded video.

Annelise made an awesome  video that showcases fun things she’s done with sugru in the last few days- we can’t wait to see what our users come up with!

November 02 2011

OpenSCAD Gears Pro-Tip or The Importance of Flossing

Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears by GregFrost

Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears by GregFrost

Today I was trying to design something with one large and one small gear making use of Cbiffle’s awesome Spur Gear Fitter Script and Greg Frost’s Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears script.  Unfortunately, whenever I tried to create a large and a small gear, I always ended up with the small gear having no teeth! 12

Cbiffle’s script is really useful if you don’t want to get too deep into the math of making gears, but do want gears with a certain gear ratio that will mesh well.  It basically takes care of all of the math you would normally need to get good fitting gears from Greg Frost’s script.

I asked Syvwlch for advice about my toothless gear problem.  He suggested there was a bug in the Spur Gears Script that would cause gear teeth to disappear in certain circumstances.  His way of getting around this problem was to use a non-integer for the number of teeth!  I tried 9.99 teeth (which failed) and then 10.001 which worked!

This OpenSCAD script provides modules for both Spur and Bevel Gears. It has some major enhancements over my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3534. It uses some of the spur gear nomenclature code from TheOtherRob github.com/TheOtherRob/MCAD with my own code for generating the involute teeth. The bevel gear is also my own work. Thanks also to elmom for some enhancements to my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3547. Enhancements include the Bevel gear module, backlash settings, parameterised number of facets for the involute curve and whole of tooth generation to avoid some of the issues the original script had when mirroring a half tooth. The STLs provided are not intended for direct use, but instead show examples of what can be done with the parametric script. Parametric Involute Spur Gears take the following parameters:number_of_teethcircular_pitch or diametral_pitch: controls the size of the teeth (and hence the size of the gear).pressure_angle: controls the shape of the teeth.clearance: The gap between the root between teeth and the teeth point on a meshing gear.gear_thickness: the thickness of the gear plate.rim_thickness: the thickness of the gear at the rim (including the teeth).rim_width: radial distance from the root of the teeth to the inside of the rim.hub_thickness: the thickness of the section around the bore.hub_diameterbore_diameter: size of the hole in the middlecircles: the number of circular holes to cut in the gear plate.backlash: the space between this the back of this gears teeth and the front of its meshing gear\'s teeth when the gear is correctly spaced from it.twist: for making helical gears.involute_facets: the number of facets in one side of the involute tooth shape. If this is omitted it will be 1/4 of $fn. If $fn is not set, it will be 5. Parametric Involute Profile Bevel (Conical) Gears take the following parameters:number_of_teethcone_distance: The distance from the pitch apex to the outside pitch diameter.face_width: The length of the teeth.outside_circular_pitch: The circular pitch at the outside pitch diameter.pressure_angle: Defines the shape of the teeth.clearance: Gap between the tip of the teeth on one gear and the root of the teeth on another meshing gear.bore_diameter: The size of the hole in the middle.gear_thickness: The thickness of the gear for bevel_gear_back_cone finish (see below). backlash: Makes the tooth width smaller to make a gap between teeth of correctly spaced gears to allow for manufacturing tolerances.involute_facets: As for spur gears.finish: Specify either bevel_gear_flat(0) or bevel_gear_back_cone(1). If you don't specify this parameter you will get a flat gear for pitch angles less than 45 degrees and a back cone gear for pitch angles greater than 45 degrees. The example shows both with the small gear being the flat one. Update: v5.0 Implements backlash for bevel gears (This was not working in v4.0).
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com
I've been working with Greg Frost's gear generator. Getting the gears to mesh requires some math, or trial and error. As a programmer, I don't like doing either one more than once. :-) This script lets you specify the axle spacing and gear ratio and get the circular_pitch parameter. It simplifies fitting gears together.
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com

http://store.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk7-complete.html

  1. And, thus, the importance of flossing!
  2. I included the flossing reference because it was amusing.  But, really flossing isn’t relevant if you’ve got a MK6 or MK7 extruder.

October 25 2011

Designing for Parametrics in OpenSCAD

Part Catch Basket for Thing-O-Matic by dustinandrews

Part Catch Basket for Thing-O-Matic by dustinandrews

Designing 3D objects in OpenSCAD can be very quick and simple. 1  You can create some really amazing designs by just combining cubes and cylinders in a variety of ways.  However, making a design “parametric” isn’t always intuitive.  As an FYI, a parametric design in OpenSCAD is a design that accepts parameters.

There are a lot of OpenSCAD designs on Thingiverse where the author admits their design isn’t very “parametric.”  With a little effort and a few tips, it is possible to incorporate the power of OpenSCAD parameters into your own designs.  Since I learned some of these lessons when designing an OpenSCAD pirate ship, I’ll refer back to it for examples.

  1. Parameters first.  It is so much easier to make your designs parametric from the start.  Going back and making a design parametric can be as easy as find-and-replacing, but typically it is much more work than that.  If there’s any chance you might want to have a parametric version of your designs later – just design that way from the beginning.
  2. Prioritize.  Decide on the most important parameters first.  Most designs only have a few parameters that are really important.  For example, the two most critical features of the pirate ship were the ship’s scale, as in size, and the thickness of parts.  Once these two were known, most of the other features of the design needed to be modified to fit them.
  3. Dependents.  Try to make as many of the features of your designs dependent upon the initial parameters as possible.  The easiest way to do this is to design as much as possible in terms of the original parameters.  I like to do this by setting dependent objects as fractions of the original parameters.  In the example of the pirate ship, I made the largest sail on each of the masts equal to 1/2 the size of the masts themselves.  The other sails were even smaller fractions.  By making these features defined in relation to one another by fractions, they will always end up in the same appropriate locations with respect to one another.  Thus, the three sails on each mast should always line up together.  Throughout the design, I tended to design things in terms of 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64.  These fractions are easier for me to manage than decimals.
  4. Mix it up.  While you’re designing, change some of the major parameters.  If your model suddenly goes haywire, you know you made a mistake somewhere – either by including a feature that doesn’t rely on your parameters or by a feature that is changed by your parameters in unexpected ways.
  5. Modularize.  Start by designing just one aspect of your idea at a time as a module.  Doing so will let you define whole regions of your designs in relation to one another.  For example, one of the modules I wrote for the pirate ship was for a single sail.  I wrote another module that would put together three sales of decreasing sizes and another module that added the large triangular sail and mast itself.  Yet another module collected all three sails.  Once the three sails could be created by a single module, I could move all of the sails around as a single piece.
  6. Cheat.  One of the parameters for the cylinder function is “$fn”.  This basically dictates how many facets the circumference of your cylinder will have.  A cylinder with 8 facets will look like an octagon and a cylinder with 128 facets would probably look almost perfectly circular.  I cheated by making triangles by creating cylinders with “$fn=3″ or just three facets.  There are a lot of shape libraries for OpenSCAD, but this was a quick and simple way to get an equilateral triangle.  Each of the sails is actually a cylinder, turned on its side, with just three facets along the circumference.

What other suggestions do you have for someone who wants to make their designs parametric?

  1. Thanks to dustinandrews for tagging their Part Catch Basket for Thing-O-Matic as with “openscadtutorial” on Thingiverse!

September 19 2011

How to Make a Printing Plate

Printing plates for Mr. Maker by ErikJDurwoodII

Printing plates for Mr. Maker by ErikJDurwoodII

Yesterday I spent some time organizing the parts in the MakerBot mascot entry “Mr. Maker” by ErikJDurwoodII into printing plates.  Afterward, Erik asked how I did this.  While I had posted some tips on creating printing plates earlier, I didn’t really give a decent step-by-step guide.  I like using OpenSCAD to orient the parts, but I’m sure there are other ways.  Here’s my process:

  1. Orient.  Make sure all STL parts are centered and flat on the build surface.
    1. The easiest way to ensure this is to open the STL in ReplicatorG, click “Move” in the bottom right corner, then “Center” in the right panel.  Matt demonstrates how to do this in MakerBot TV episode one @ 2:56.
  2. Sort.  Sort all STL’s by the number of times each part needs to be printed.  I like to put them into folders labeled “1″, “2″, “3″, etc.
  3. Make a Plate.  I use a simple OpenSCAD command to create a transparent representation of the build area.  I like to use an 80×80 mm square so that I can be sure everything is going to fit.  Here’s the command I used:
    1. % cube([80,80,0.01],true);
  4. Practice Moving/Spinning.  Using just the OpenSCAD translate and rotate commands, you’ll be able to move, spin, and place any part.
  5. Plan for Multiples.  Looking at all of the parts that need to printed multiple times, see if you can place them together so that printing a single plate more than once will give you the proper number of parts.
  6. Biggest Parts.  The largest parts that can’t be included with other large parts will essentially determine the number of printing plates you need.  Place each large part onto it’s own plate.
  7. Medium Parts.  Once you have a general idea of the number of plates you need, as determined by the biggest pieces that can’t be combined with other parts, try to fit the medium pieces in and around other parts.  If you can’t fit them around the large pieces, you’ll need to create a plate of medium parts.
  8. Small Parts.  The smallest parts can be sprinkled in and around all the large and medium parts.
  9. Pro Tips:
    1. If you have a part that needs to be printed an odd number of times, consider putting a single occurrence of this same part into a plate that needs to be printed only once.
    2. Sometimes it helps to have extra parts, so printing an even number of a piece that you need an odd number of isn’t actually very wasteful.
    3. Consider mirror-flipping a part if it won’t fit.  Some parts won’t fit onto a plate unless they’re flipped, but are just as functional either way.
    4. Consider printing small parts multiple times if you can fit an extra instance onto a plate.  Small parts can rip off the build platform, get deformed, break, or get lost.  Printing an extra small part along with larger parts doesn’t add that much time or plastic and will probably save you a lot more time down the road.
    5. Save yourself some heartache and make sure you use a Stepper based extruder that will allow you print without a mess of strings between all the parts.
    6. Always include the individual STL’s for parts even if you’re uploading printing plates.  Sometimes people just need to print or reprint one little piece and it can be a real pain to carve one out of a printing plate.
  10. Rock Star Tips:
    1. Some parts such as complex gears or external pieces can better benefit from high resolution, slower printing, or different infill ratios than other simple or internal pieces.  Consider organizing the parts so that certain pieces that need similar resolution/speed/infill ratios are printed together.  Thanks to Bobbens for including this tip in his Mini servo gripper plate.
    2. How about creating the entire GCode setup for printing everything using an Automated Build Platform?
    3. If you’ve got a MK7 Dual Extruder setup with soluble support material, you could stack parts on top of one another.  This means you could turn a multipart print into one single long print task, print everything as one big chunk of plastic, drop the result in water, let the PVA dissolve, and pull out all of your parts.

Do you use production or printing plates?  What program do you use to make them?  What additional tips do you have?

September 01 2011

How to Create a 3D Printable Map Puzzle Tutorial by Chapulina

South America map puzzle by chapulina

South America map puzzle by chapulina

This tutorial on how to create a 3D printable map puzzle by Chapulina is far too awesome to be relegated to a simple footnote.  Chapulina uses a combination of open source resources and programs to achieve this final result, including maps from Wikipedia, the vector drawing and image manipulation tools from Inkscape, and the DXF support of OpenSCAD to create these cool 3D printable puzzles.

Chapulina’s title of their blog post and tutorial was far more generic than simply “creating 3D printable map-puzzles,” as well it should have been.  This same exact methodology could be used to create a 3D printable1 puzzle out of any image.

What will you do with this new found knowledge?

online maps, inkscape,openscad dxf

  1. Or lasercuttable!

August 17 2011

From Kinect to MakerBot Guide at Make: Projects

Head on over to the MakeProjects site to catch Brian Jepson’s From Kinect to MakerBot guide-in-progress for how to transform captured Kinect data on through to the STLs you need to 3D print with your MakerBot Thing-O-Matic.

His guide picks up where Kyle McDonald’s great 3D Printing with Kinect post leaves off — a great tutorial to take you from the initial STL you create using Kyle’s KinectToSTL tool through to a scaled-down, MakerBot-printable  STL. Bonus points for using only open source tools for the entire chain!

Those looking to learn more about the Open Kinect movement should check out the Open Kinect Project (offers MeetUps in certain cities) and consider attending conferences such as Art && Code 3D: Kinect-Hacking Conference, on October 21-23rd at Carnegie Mellon University.

There have been a few people asking for easier to install binary releases for Kyle’s KinectToSTL tool, compiled also for Windows and Linux. There are some complications that require fuss, not to mention the need to make changes to the code to suit the latest OpenFrameworks release (according to Matt and Kyle). If you accomplish this work, drop a comment back here and we will happily trumpet your triumph to the world.

August 05 2011

Great Google Sketchup for MakerBot Printing Tutorial Up at Tested.com

 

Check out this great Google SketchUp tutorial for MakerBot Operators from Tested.com! No doubt many of you have caught their show. I particularly love their MakerBot Mystery Build Fridays, for obvious reasons. Well, in addition to exploring the Thingiverse and printing with their brand new Thing-O-Matic, they are also helping all of us contribute more great designs.

Here’s a teaser from their post:

Most weeks, our famed MakerBot printouts are culled from a handy website called Thingiverse. It’s here that members of the CNC community can submit pre-made models for anyone to print — and if some of our past videos are any indication, there are some very good ones available too. But while it’s easy to print someone else’s creation, there’s something to be said for designing one yourself. There’s a sense of accomplishment that you just don’t get by mashing “print” on a pre-made design. (Read more.)

There are quite a few Google Sketchup tutorials out there, but not that many good ones focused on 3D printing with a MakerBot. Thanks to Tested.com for sharing the good stuff!

July 22 2011

Google SketchUp Design Tip – Fix Flipped Faces

Rotary Sprinklers by Supermange

Rotary Sprinklers by Supermange

If you’re using Google Sketchup for designing 3D printable models, you may have noticed that exporting to STL’s using some of the various plugins can be very hit-or-miss.  After checking out Supermange’s rotary sprinklers I was reminded of this quick fix for a very common design problem in Google Sketchup – the “flipped face.”

Looking at the screenshot above, you’ll notice that the facets of the object are either a white-and-light-gray tone or a dark-gray-and-darker-gray tone.  As a surface modeler, Google Sketchup doesn’t much pay much attention to whether a surface is on the outside or inside of a model.  However, once you turn it into an STL, this can create problems.

Fortunately, this is an easy problem to fix.  All you need to do is right click on the darker face (such as much of the top right flange of the model above) and select “Reverse face” from the menu.  While you can select multiple faces at once and flip all of them simultaneously, this still leaves a minor, and somewhat tedious, problem of detecting the flipped faces in the first place.  If they are too numerous or tiny to locate, you might be better off using some STL correction software to fix the flipped faces.

July 19 2011

Tinkercad Quests: Learn Through Making

Tinkercad, a powerful online solid modeling CAD application, has just introduced a new feature that I have a feeling will be very popular among MakerBot Operators.

Secretly (or not so secretly?) the developers are veteran hardcore games developers taking a stab at a new field. They draw from their past UI/interactive design experience to create a focused tool that is designed from the ground up to be as intuitive a modeler as most people need for 3D printing models.

I was at first dubious about a WebGL-based solid modeler, as much as I love 3dtin, but I became converted while team-teaching a “Prototyping on a MakerBot” course for the teen after-school program at Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum. Students picked up Tinkercad quickly, and made intricate, capable work during the first session, projects that I was able to print for them with little or no STL repair!

A number of Thingiverse participants have been using this tool (Including me)  – and the Tinkercad “Export to Thingiverse” button makes it easy for them to share their design and print files they have created with the software here.

Well, the Tinkercad developers didn’t leave the games part of their past experience out of the equation — they have started rolling games elements into Tinkercad as a tutorial series designed to help user dive into using their tool quickly and easily. I have taken a couple of them and enjoyed them — and I love the beautiful Thing-O-Matic-printed buttons that is featured in their current Quest set. (They hope to start adding new quests fairly regularly, as these quests generate the feedback they need to tune this element of Tinkercad. Make sure to dive in now and send feedback to help them move forward with the Quests project!)

So create or login to your Tinkercad account — and discover the new Quests tab on the top bar. Happy questing!

Reposted byantifuchs antifuchs

July 15 2011

Things I learned redesigning a model

Open Source Disc Shooter

Open Source Disc Shooter

I started to design an open source disc shooter about six months back.  At that time I was using Google Sketchup to design things.  Since then I’ve been designing in OpenSCAD.  Here’s a few things I learned while starting over:

  1. Solid modelers FTW.  I find it more difficult to revise a Sketchup design than it is to redesign from scratch with a solid modeler.  When you move a line or surface in Sketchup, it can push/pull any lines or surfaces connected to it.  Since making a change to something in Sketchup means fixing all the things connected to that change, it’s often just easier to start over.1
  2. Sometimes starting over isn’t so bad.  One of the reasons I set this design aside was that I had hit a design block.  Starting over means that I now have a fresh perspective on the design.  Since then I’ve also been inspired by mraiser’s 27-to-1 reduction gearset and it’s snap-together assembly to design the mechanism with assembly of this device in mind.  Another more recent inspiration is Tony’s mars rover for many of the same reasons.
  3. Over design and scale back later.  My initial designs had pieces that were 1.5mm thick.  Now I’ve redesigned the parts mostly with 2-3mm thicknesses.  Just so you know, making a change like this is really really simple in OpenSCAD.  Just change the thickness variable, and the design instantly incorporates the new thicknesses.   Once I get the basic design totally working, I’ll be able to scale back the thickness of parts later.  It will be a lot easier to decide which parts to alter once I have a working prototype.
  4. Printing in clear PLA isn’t always such a good idea.  Yes, it’s biodegradable.  Yes, it doesn’t warp on large flat pieces.  And, yes, it really does smell like candy as it melts.  However, finding small clear parts on tan carpet can be a challenge.  I think I’ll print in nuclear green for the next batch of discs.  I had honestly never previously given much thought to the color of plastic I was using in a prototype.
  5. Design from the inside out.  In this revision, I began with designing the firing pin that slides forward and worked my way outwards.  My original attempt was centered around trying to make a printable version of an existing toy.  Since then I’ve tried to design from what I perceive to be the most critical parts and work my way out. 2
  6. Design with clearances in mind.  My previous attempt did not fit well together at all.  This time, since I was designing from the inside-out, I made sure that each piece could fit with the others.  Also, since the prior versions were so thin, they didn’t have much room for adding clearances later.
  1. Don’t get me wrong, I really like Sketchup a lot, but the free version of the program models surfaces, not solids.  This means you could create some amazing looking models that are not really solids at all.
  2. In this, I take my inspiration from chats with Syvwlch.

June 30 2011

OpenSCAD Intermediates: Fixing Design Problems

parametric Cable Catcher x4 by punkerdood

parametric Cable Catcher x4 by punkerdood

In this OpenSCAD tutorial series so far we’ve covered the basics of the OpenSCAD interface, how to make 2D forms, how to make some basic 3D forms, how to position those forms in 3D space, the different ways to combine forms, how to create mashups of one or more existing STL’s and OpenSCAD forms, how to use modules to reuse your code to make your life easier, and how to extrude flat 2D forms into 3D forms1  Although I described the last four tutorials as “intermediate” levels, that’s really only because you learned the basics so quickly from the first few tutorials. With just the basics you can literally design anything you can imagine. The “intermediate” lessons will let you do a little more and make your life a lot easier.

Before we get started, the image is from punkerdood’s OpenSCAD tutorial homework. I’d like to include a picture of your homework next time. So, please practice making something in OpenSCAD, upload it to Thingiverse with an open license, and tag it with “openscadtutorial.”

  • As with any 3D modeling program, you can sometimes get lost or disoriented in OpenSCAD.  These things happen.  Perhaps you accidentally zoomed out too far or in too close and you don’t know know what your point of view is in relation to the object you’re trying to create.  Maybe you created a little object of some kind and can’t see where it is being rendered in the preview screen.  Today’s tutorial is all about how to overcome those problems and get back to designing awesome things.
  • Let’s start with a very simple module and see what happens as we manipulate it with these different methods.
    1. module funkybox()
    2. {
    3. cube(40);
    4. sphere(15);
    5. }
    6. box();
    7. translate([0,0,100]) box();
  • “*” or Disable command
    • The Disable command, “*”, does pretty much as it promises.  Just add that little asterisk before an object, and it will be disabled.  You just won’t see it when previewing (F5) or rendering (F6) an object.  This command will disable an entire subtree.  Really all this means is that it will disable everything right up to the first semicolon.
    • If you add the asterisk at line 3 above, you won’t see the cube.
      1. * cube(40);
    • If you add it before line 4 above, you won’t see the sphere.  If you add it before line 6, you won’t see either.
    • If you can’t find an object you’ve designed, it’s easy to locate it by temporarily disabling other objects until you see where it is.
  • “!” or Root command
    • The Root command, “!”, forces OpenSCAD to ignore everything except the subtree following the root command.
    • If you add the asterisk at line 3 above, you’ll only see the cube as if it were not in a module.
      1. ! cube(40);
    • If you add it before line 4 above, you’ll only see the sphere, as if it were not in a module.  If you add it before line 6, you’ll only see the one instance of the “funkybox();”.
    • This is a good way to isolate just one feature out of an entire OpenSCAD file and focus on it.
  • “%” or Background command
    • The Background command, “%”, draws the subtree that follows it in transparent gray.
    • If you add the percent sign before line 4 above, you’ll still see both instances of the cube, but both will also be a transparent gray.
      1. % cube(40);
    • If you add it before line 4 above, you’ll see both instances of the sphere as transparent.  If you add it before line 6, you’ll see one instance of the “funkybox();” as entirely transparent and the other as normal.
    • This is really useful if you need to manipulate objects within other objects or need to see where two things really intersect.
  • “#” or Debug command
    • The Debug command, “#”, draws the subtree that follows it in a pinkish color.
    • If you add the pound sign before line 4 above, you’ll see both instances of the cube in pink.
      1. % cube(40);
    • If you add it before line 4 above, you’ll see both instances of the sphere as pink.  If you add it before line 6, you’ll see one instance of the “funkybox();” as pink and the other as normal.
    • This is useful if you need to identify just one object from within a lot of similar looking objects.

Homework assignment

Now that you’ve learned how to fix design problems in OpenSCAD, how about showing everyone what you can do?  Please leave a comment below about how you’ve been able to fix a problem using one of the techniques above or by using your own method.  While you’re at it, how about designing something cool and uploading your OpenSCAD file and the STL to Thingiverse?  As always, to make me extra proud be sure and tag it with “openscadtutorial.” As if basking in my affection wasn’t enough, I’ll pick one someone’s OpenSCAD homework and use their designs as part of the next tutorial.

Bonus Section 1: The Tutorials So Far

This is just a list of the tutorials in this series. :)

  1. OpenSCAD Basics: The Setup
  2. OpenSCAD Basics: 2D Forms
  3. OpenSCAD Basics: 3D forms
  4. OpenSCAD Basics: Manipulating Forms
  5. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Combining Forms
  6. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Mashups
  7. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Modularity
  8. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Extruding 2D Objects
  9. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Fixing Design Problems

Bonus Section 2: Other sources

If you like reading ahead or want more information about OpenSCAD, I’ve found these websites to be very helpful.

  1. Official OpenSCAD website
  2. OpenSCAD User’s Manual
  3. OpenSCAD beginner’s tutorial
  4. OpenSCAD tutorial roundup on the Thingiverse blog
  5. Inkscape to OpenSCAD DXF tutorial
  6. Two New OpenSCAD Polygon Tools
  7. How to create a printable sign or logo (Inkscape and OpenSCAD)
  8. OpenSCAD screw libraries by syvwlch and aubenc
  9. Inkscape for OpenSCAD users

Bonus Section 3: What’s next???

The topic of the next tutorial is up to you. What would you like to learn next? Is there something you’d like to learn how to make? Is there something more you’d like to learn about some of the topics we’ve covered?

  1. If you’re wondering why it’s been a while since the last tutorial – it’s because I’m writing these things as I learn OpenSCAD myself.  If you catch up to this tutorial, you’ve caught up with me too!

June 27 2011

MakerBot MicroTip: Using the Support Features in Skeinforge’s Raft Tool

Lately, I’ve been experimenting with Skeinforge 35′s Support preferences (located in the Raft tool) to print objects that either have nasty overhangs (so would be likely to drop loops) or do not offer an easy flat sides to print from. In the past, these tools worked, but lead to uneven results. But with the latest toolheads offering stepper driven extrusion and really precise temperature management, bridging and printing with support structure gets better every day.

One consequence of the mechanical and software engineering updates to the Thing-O-Matic printer: with each new round of releases it is worth the effort to experiment with tuning Skeinforge settings in the Raft tool so that you can see how your MakerBot responds to the new possibilities.

Here are the models I use for support testing:

  • Wizzard by guru (the hat, sleeves, and arms are excellent support tests)
  • a 40% scale, upside down Stanford Bunny (printing inverted will make it obvious if your settings are skewing your model)

I also have a really challenging support test (featured above): animator Raedia Albinson‘s abstract sculpture “SisterRaeSpiral3.” I can’t make this STL available (though she is considering sharing it with Thingiverse) but suffice it to say that this is a cluster of nested spiral tendrils with no flat base. Pretty much the most brutal support test I have found — so I keep threatening the R&D team to send it to them as a test print.1

The Support settings are found within Skeinforge and can be accessed by clicking “Generate Gcode,” choosing a profile from the list, and then hitting the “Edit” button to open up the settings windows.

First Tip: Your settings in the Raft:Interface section will have a tremendous effect on your support material! So that Interface Infill Density (ratio) value determines how dense your support material will be (even though it isn’t in the support material section).

Second Tip: Can you use Support Material in combination with ReplicatorG 25′s Print-O-Matic features? Why, yes you can! Print-O-Matic overwrites some of the values in your profile, but not all of them. So you will be able to get the support material settings you like in your profile, and use a combination of activating “Raft” and picking a “Use support material” setting to use the Skeinforge:Raft settings you have added into your profile.

Here’s a great place to start for settings!

  • Interface infill density (ratio): 0.4 (0.3-0.7)’
  • Interface Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.2 ( also  0.7)
  • Support Cross Hatch: No.
  • Support Flow Rate over Operating Flow Rate (ratio): 0.7 (0.4-0.7)
  • Support Gap over Perimeter Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.005
  • Support Material Choice: Everywhere
  • Support Minimum Angle (degrees): 35.0
  1. And they keep saying “Bring it on!”

June 17 2011

Two New OpenSCAD Polygon Tools

OpenScad Polygon Generator by PieterBos

OpenScad Polygon Generator by PieterBos

In a recent OpenSCAD tutorial I described the basic process for creating 2D polygons in OpenSCAD.  However, drawing polygons in OpenSCAD can be very problematic.  Unless every triangle is described in the same “winding order,” some of the triangles in the polygon will be “flipped” causing OpenSCAD to freak out, rather than render them properly.  Rather than designing using OpenSCAD polygons, I tend to either (a) design in Inkscape, export to DXF, and extrude the DXF in OpenSCAD or (b) build up the desired polygon out of boxes and circles.

However, these methods just might be a thing of the past.  Just this week two Thingiverse users have each released a new way to easily create OpenSCAD polygons without all the potential pitfalls from manually writing them.

Simarilius created an Inkscape to Openscad Export extension which will allow you to export an Inkscape shape directly as a OpenSCAD code.  This would be a huge shortcut on the first method I suggested above, since you won’t have to deal with an intermediary file format1 and potential translation problems that could occur.

The second OpenSCAD tool is the OpenSCAD Polygon Generator by PieterBos.  This program provides a nice graphical user interface for designing an object.  Once you’re happy with your designs, you can export them directly as OpenSCAD code.  PieterBos even put together a nice video tutorial to go along with his contribution.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Both of these tools will go a really long way to creating an easier route to developing more complex forms and making OpenSCAD more accessible.  I can’t wait to see what people design using these tools!

inx and python extension to convert selected path to Openscad format.
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com
Well this is an proof of concept so to speak. Not really a thing ;-). What i do here is generate scad files. I was playing with that thought for a while now. Because its a bit strange. I use one programming language (action-script 3.0 and flex in my case) to generate the other.

In this case for the polygon method within openscad witch is powerfull but hard to read. So a made the visual helper for generation polygon call with a bit of extrusion

Weird but it works what do you think mad or mad science ;)

The small air app does not have any undo functionality and you can only draw on a grid, it was just to test something maybe i will add stuff to it ? should i ?

youtube.com/watch?v=0oSW9zlKsZ8

Update 14 Jun 2011:
Thanks for the great response but a bit of warning is in place the fxp source code is, well.. how do is say it.... very sloppy ;-) , just so you know build it 2 or 3 hours or so ( hack hack )
This thing brought to you by Thingiverse.com
  1. In this case the DXF

May 23 2011

OpenSCAD Intermediates: Extruding 2D Objects

OpenSCAD tut by BoriSpider

OpenSCAD tut by BoriSpider

In this OpenSCAD tutorial series so far we’ve covered the basics of the OpenSCAD interface, how to make 2D forms, how to make some basic 3D forms, how to position those forms in 3D space, the different ways to combine forms, how to create mashups of one or more existing STL’s and OpenSCAD forms, and how to use modules to reuse your code to make your life easier.  Although I described the last three tutorials as “intermediate” levels, that’s really only because you learned the basics so quickly from the first few tutorials.  With just the basics you can literally design anything you can imagine.  The “intermediate” lessons will let you do a little more and make your life a lot easier.

Before we get started, the image is from BoriSpider‘s OpenSCAD tutorial homework.  I’d like to include a picture of your homework next time.  So, please practice making something in OpenSCAD, upload it to Thingiverse with an open license, and tag it with “openscadtutorial.”

  • You may remember one of the first tutorials was about creating flat 2D forms using some simple commands.  Once you learned how to make 3D objects, it probably didn’t seem very interesting to play with the square, circle, and polygon commands.  However, there are still a lot of uses for these flat objects.   OpenSCAD gives us the ability to do some very interesting things with flat objects by giving them a third dimensional quality – thickness.
  • Linear_Extrude
    • The “linear_extrude” command will let us basically take a flat object and give it thickness.  First, let’s take a basic object like a rectangle.
      1. square([20,30]);
    • Now, let’s use the “linear_extrude” command to give this rectangle a thickness of 13mm.
      1. linear_extrude(height = 13) square([20,30]);
    • You can even use this on a pile of flat objects or a module of flat objects.
      1. module flatstuff()
      2. {
      3. square(20);
      4. translate([10,20,0]) circle(10);
      5. translate([20,10,0]) circle(10);
      6. }
      7. linear_extrude(height = 13) flatstuff();
  • DXF_Linear_Extrude
    • If you’ve mastered “linear_extrude”1 you’re ready for a pretty easy and useful way to extrude DXF files.  A DXF file is a digital file commonly used on Thingiverse and elsewhere for laser cutting.  A DXF is basically a flat 2D drawing where the path of the 2D lines would b ecut by a laser or some other cutting method.
    • Let’s imagine you have a 3D printer – but no laser cutter.  Perhaps you’ve just found something amazing on Thingiverse for laser cutting, but you just can’t live without it.  Or, perhaps you want to print a replacement laser cut part for your 3D printer.  You can use the OpenSCAD “dxf_linear_extrude” command to work in much the same way as the above “linear_extrude” command.
    • Assuming your DXF file is in the same folder as your OpenSCAD installation, the following should work for you too:2
      1. dxf_linear_extrude(file=”pandorica13.dxf”, height=2);
    • Now instead of just a 2D outline of the image in the DXF file, you should have a 2mm thick object in the shape of your DXF!
    • Just so you know, OpenSCAD can be little finicky about the DXF files it imports.  It will need to be in “DXF R12″ format, otherwise it might use certain DXF features that aren’t supported by OpenSCAD.
  • Rotate_Extrude
    • Since “rotate_extrude()” does something similar and has similar syntax, this would be a good time to cover it as well.  This command basically takes a flat object and spins in 360 degrees around the Z axis.  Let’s take a circle and see what happens when we spin it.
      1. rotate_extrude()
      2. circle(r = 10);
    • As you might expect, it turns a circle into a sphere.
    • Let’s see what happens when we offset that circle a little bit.
      1. rotate_extrude()
      2. translate([20,0,0])
      3. circle(r = 10);
    • You should now see a great big donut.  Since the circle is offset from the center of the Z axis, when it gets spun around the axis, it will leave a hole in the middle.

Homework assignment

Now that you’ve learned how to use three different kinds of extrusion in OpenSCAD, how about showing everyone what you can do?  See if you can find a DXF file on Thingiverse and extrude it into a part you could actually print.  When you’re done, upload your OpenSCAD file and the STL to Thingiverse.  As always, to make me extra proud be sure and tag it with “openscadtutorial.”  As if basking in my affection wasn’t enough, I’ll pick one someone’s OpenSCAD homework and use their designs as part of the next tutorial.

Bonus Section 1:  The Tutorials So Far

This is just a list of the tutorials in this series.  :)

  1. OpenSCAD Basics: The Setup
  2. OpenSCAD Basics: 2D Forms
  3. OpenSCAD Basics: 3D forms
  4. OpenSCAD Basics:  Manipulating Forms
  5. OpenSCAD Intermediates:  Combining Forms
  6. OpenSCAD Intermediates:  Mashups
  7. OpenSCAD Intermediates:  Modularity
  8. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Extruding 2D Objects

Bonus Section 2:  Other sources

If you like reading ahead or want more information about OpenSCAD, I’ve found these three websites to be very helpful.

  1. Official OpenSCAD website
  2. OpenSCAD User’s Manual
  3. OpenSCAD beginner’s tutorial
  4. OpenSCAD tutorial roundup on the Thingiverse blog

Bonus Section 3:  What’s next???

The topic of the next tutorial is up to you.  What would you like to learn next?  Is there something you’d like to learn how to make?  Is there something more you’d like to learn about some of the topics we’ve covered?

  1. I knew it wouldn’t take you long!
  2. Say, for instance, you’re a fan of Doctor Who.

May 17 2011

MakerBot MicroTip: Embedding Hardware In Your Prints

Kinect Camera Tripod Mount with Embedded Threaded Insert

Before your imagination carries you to embedded systems or even cyberpunk, I should warn you: I’m talking about a simple hack to integrate hardware of the nuts, bolts, and threaded inserts variety. ABS plastic is sturdy and easy to work with — but for fastening and unfastening many many times, metal hardware can be an advantage.

I wanted to make a sturdy 3D-printed camera mount for MakerBot’s current artist-in-residence Kyle McDonald who is doing work with the Kinect. I liked a few of the Kinect mounts that I found online at Thingiverse and elsewhere (particularly the Kinect mount to camera tripod by Henkka and Kinect Tv mount by Chooch) but Kyle requested something that could really lock down the Kinect mount for longterm, rugged use. (Also, the four outer holes on a Kinect are just the right size to create threading for M3 bolts.)

When I found a bunch of 1/4-20 threaded inserts in the BotCave, I thought: “Why don’t I build my model around this hardware?”

Creating the Model

I built my mount using Tinkercad, a solid modeller, so that I could continue to tweak my model after every time I printed it. Bonus: you can jump in and make your own version of the mount with whatever baroque embellishments appeal to you. Edit the part online at: tinkercad.com/p/acc0d8eff4d75895

Rather than aiming to trap the threaded insert with a second 3D printed plug1, I designed the model so that I could perform post-print extruding to seal the hardware into the part. Essentially, I added a enough millimeters to the tolerances around the parts I want to seal in that I can extrude plastic down into the cavity to seal it in.

Embedding the Hardware

For a few months I have used a “partymode” script to extrude in intermittent bursts for filling in voids in prints that need just that one last dollop of love. This script heats up the nozzle and omits turning off the heater at the end of the print ((And not turning it off at the end of the print — a bit risky if you don’t watch what you are doing.)) so that I can run it series for short periods of time.2 You can create a script like this for yourself — or you can use the options for setting the extrusion time in seconds using the control panel in RepG 24 and 25.

Here are the steps I took after printing the base model.

1

Place the hardware in the socket prepared for it in the model. Warm up the extruder to about 230 degrees Celsius and set the stepper extrusion speed to about 1.5 to 1.9. If you have one handy, thread a bolt into the insert to prevent any plastic from slipping into the mounting point itself.

2

Set extrusion to 10 or 30 second at a time and bring the part to fill up to within a couple of millimeters of the nozzle. Fill the cavities around the mounting spike just like you might with a hotglue gun. I move the part in a tiny circle so that the plastic can fill the cavity fairly evenly. Fill a little bit higher than the top surface.

3

Having completely filled the bottom cavities, I pull the part out of the MakerBot. While the plastic is still warm, I press the plastic down into the cavity firmly with my fingers. A flat screwdriver or a tiny file can work well to clean up any excess or stray threads. After pressing the plastic flush, I flip the part over to fill in the top cavities.

4

The completed, filled top cavities. As the camera pin and the threaded insert will be locking down, filling the top is more to taste — as long as he extrusion at least reaches the plastic extruded into the other side a tiny bit.

Now I have a Kinect camera mount with the hardware locked in place for easy use!

What projects of yours would benefit from this approach?

  1. which would work really well — feel free to design a snap-in and share it back with folks!
  2. Afterwards, you can sand the “filler” back flush with the surface of the model with some sandpaper.
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